The first is very simple and more well known. Therefore, it is recommended that any images that will be printed are set to at least a 16-bit color depth. Im not posting the 12-bit original RAW as it looks the same before processing. This gives me more latitude to deal with extreme scenes or work with files that I may accidentally underexpose. Choose a bit depth for your image in Photoshop. A while back I was messing with some settings in photoshop and must have accidently done something wrong. This is a pretty lumpy scale and not very useful for a photograph. This is where you will find all of the color information about your file. I have tried various test edits designed to induce banding with ProPhoto and still not run into it (with 16-bit files). This simply means that ProPhoto RGB will retain most color information present in Lightroom recreating your image in Photoshop faithfully. Banding is obvious/discrete jumps from one color or tone to the next (instead of a smooth gradient). I'm just saying that I don't think Photoshop's 15+1 bit depth design is . There are 3 channels in an RGB image. To do this, choose Image from the menu bar, navigate to Mode, and select 16 Bits/Channel. When editing images for print, its important to understand and use the proper color depth to get the greatest range of tonal values. I then processed the images in Lightroom (LR) using exposure and white balance adjustments. There are other ranges as well, such as 12-bit and 14-bit, but these arent used in Photoshop, so we wont get into them here. In reality, you will probably never that many bits for several reasons: Taking all of this into consideration, 12-bits sounds like a very reasonable level of detail that should allow for significant post-processing. You would assume that this then means 16-bits means 16-bits per channel in Photoshop. But, its always a good idea to check with your printer to find out their requirements to you dont run into any issues with your print order. An 8 bit image can display 16.7 million colors between the Red, Green, and Blue color channels. Be sure to calibrate the monitor though if you are sending files out for print. 2-bit images are typically called bitmaps, and they contain only . 4. Be sure that Photoshops dithering is enabled. Results from other cameras are likely to vary, and the differences are ISO-dependent so you should test with your own camera. However, cameras and the human eye respond differently to light. If it was a pixel, it would be pure black or pure white. Since CMYK mode has 4 color channels instead of 3, you can expect a larger file size than you would with an RGB mode image. When you combine 2 bits, then you can have four possible values (00, 01, 10, and 11). Id almost say there is no banding at 9-bits. This will cause Photoshop to open the file in 16-bit mode when you're done processing the RAW file. Photoshop does actually use 16-bits per channel. This affects processing speed, memory usage, and hard drive storage. But neither is really necessary, and Ive done plenty of high-end work on a standard monitor. The New Layer settings should be sticky so you can use the previous settings and amend the size for the next. Handy Photoshop Links you will want to bookmark, Troubleshoot - Scratch disk are full error, Move artwork between Photoshop & Illustrator. Go to Edit / Color Settings and make sure Use dither (8-bit/channel images) is checked. Color monitors allowed more vibrant displays, but color depth was still limited. You are recommended to select a color mode with higher bit depth to display more colors and get a better visual experience. It is always important to validate your assumptions. Before we compare the various options, lets first discuss what the naming means. So go with 16-bits. Here's an example of the canvas vs layer view in 8-bit mode. The higher the bit depth, the more an image can be adjusted without losing quality. When you combine 3 bits, you can have eight possible values (000, 001, 010, 011, 100, 101, 110, and 111). Off the top of my head, I can only think of one scenario where converting an 8-bit photo to 16-bit would be advantageous, and its not very common. Most likely, you have a monitor with an sRGB color gamut. A 3-stop change in exposure is closer to only losing 2 bits. A while back I was messing with some settings in photoshop and must have accidently done something wrong. But if you do run into banding (most likely if you get an 8-bit stock image), you can take the following steps to minimize it: Download the FREEluminosity masking panel . Bit depth tells Photoshop how many colors an image can contain. This works great if you want to change it every time you create a new file, but something has changed recently that defaults mine to 8bit. If your print lab accepts 16-bit formats (TIFF, PSD, JPEG2000), thats probably the way to go but ask your vendor what they recommend if you are unsure. Generate new landscapes in one click with neural filters. All you need to do is to click the Image > Mode menu item and select the 16 Bits/Channel option. Bit preferences can be checked and set in Photoshop under Mode in the Image menu. All rights reserved. Most of Graphic software, by default, work on 8 Bit per color channel, providing two options for Color Modes (RGB & CMYK) and default value for Color Profile as per your choice of Color Mode.. A 8 Bit document generally means 8 Bits of color information per color component or color channel. This will have the same effect of keeping as many . Create dreamy backgrounds while . The file size of a 16-bit image is twice the size of a 8-bit image. If you follow the recommendations above, it is very unlikely you will run into banding. Each channel is 8 bits so any RGB image that's 8 bit would be. That said, I care much more about quality than file size, so I just shoot at 14-bits all the time. Note that if you want to create your own file in Photoshop, the gradient tool will create 8-bit gradients in 8-bit document mode (you can then convert the document to 16-bit mode and will still have an 8-bit gradient for testing/comparison). (figured this one out the hard way lol)For the life of me I cannot figure out where the setting is to change the default back to 8 bit, where can I change that? But it seems your conference is going to be enormously popular, so you announce youre changing the venue to a huge hall thats big enough for 1600 people. Inevitably, there are some incurable nerds who say its important to work in 16-bit mode for everything, but of course thats not true. So forget it. A quick 60 second Photoshop tutorial showing you how to change the bit depth of an image Or, simplify luminosity maskingwithLumenzia: See thestorepage for Lumenzia and course info.Lumenzia and Greg Benz Photography are registered trademarks of Greg Benz Photography LLC.Seelicensingfor Commercial and Creative Commons (Non-Commercial, Attribution) Licensing terms.Join myaffiliateprogram.See myethics and privacystatement. If you can afford it, a 10-bit display is ideal if you arent on a budget. And if you dont see it right away, even modest adjustments can expose it. You should now be able to confidently change the bit depth of your images in Photoshop. If you convert a single layer 16-bit image to 8-bits, you will see something that looks exactly like the 16-bit image you started with. Early computer monitors had "single bit" color depththe pixel was either on or off. I want to finish this page on a note of practicality 8-bit data is nowhere near as flaky as you might have been lead to believe. Heres a better one lets say you are arranging a conference in a small conference room that seats 80 people. This can start to make small gaps between values turn into large gaps. Changing Bit Depth in Photoshop If you opened a RAW or other type of high quality, uncompressed, image straight into Photoshop, don't worry, you can easily change the bit depth setting there too. An 8-bit gradient is relatively easy to see when looking for it, though I might still potentially miss it if I werent paying attention. This means that instead of 2^16 possible values (which would be 65,536 possible values) there are only 2^15+1 possible values (which is 32,768 +1 = 32,769 possible values). Release the cursor and the image is converted to the pixel depth you chose. However, not all printers are able to process high bit depths. After all that discussion, it really comes down to a few simple rules. So both sRGB and AdobeRGB already fail to capture the full range of colors that can be recreated on a monitor or printer today. Remember that bits determine the number of increments relative to a range. That said, using 16-bit capture should give you at least an extra bit in Photoshop and may be beneficial. But what about if you are sending your images over the internet to be printed by a pro lab? Amazing how that JPEG2000 file shrinks down~10,000X to only 2MB. Noise is a very good example of this discrepancy. There arent that many situations where you would encounter a perfect gradient. It would be convenient if all bit-depths could be compared directly, but there are some variations in terminology that are helpful to understand . 12-bit files can be pushed 3-4 stops in LR or CO, 14-bit files can be pushed 5-6 stops in LR or 4-5 stops in CO. LR and CO arent directly comparable since you cant do more than 5 stops of exposure adjustment in LR or more than 4 stops of exposure adjustment in CO. (In this case, the Mac menu appears on the left and the Windows one on the right.) If so, why bother with 16-bits? In Photoshop select save for web, once the window pops up on the preset . If you are using Photoshop CC, use the Camera RAW filter to add some. You move a layer to position the content on the layer, like sliding a sheet of acetate in a stack. So I set both to +4 exposure and then adjusted the RAW curve to bring in the white point to 50%. Typically, the more data each color channel can hold, the better. The result is that the bits used for shadows are lower quality (see DPReview for an in-depth discussion of the topic). RGB mode images are made up of three color channels (Red, Green and Blue). If you noticed that your file is set to 8 bits and you are getting it ready for print, youll want to change it to a 16-bit depth image. Defining a range with a bunch of unused (imaginary) colors is wasteful/innefficient and causes larger jumps over the range of image values we care about. The New Layer settings should be sticky so you can use the previous settings and amend the size for the next. It indicates how many bits of data are used to represent a color value, or how many are used in each channel. Color depth, also known as bit depth, is essentially how much information each color channel can store in each pixel. Aside from P3 monitors, there are printers commercially available which exceed the AdobeRGB gamut as well (particularly in the cyans). I looked through all the settings and can't find something obvious here to set this to 16-bit by default. I then manually corrected the image the best I could, but there were no white balance settings which looked fully correct nor matched the 14-bit file. I do not see notable differences in noise, but there are huge differences in color cast in deep shadows (with the 12-bit file shifting a bit yellow and quite a bit green) and some minor differences in shadow contrast (with the 12-bit file being a little too contrasty). Should you worry about this loss of 1 bit? So from a quality perspective, it would be very fair to say that Adobes 16-bit mode is actually only 15-bits. I dont know if Lightroom uses 15+1 or true 16-bit math internally, but I suspect the latter. Color depth is essential when it comes to producing smooth, high-quality photos. This noise typically makes banding a little harder to see at a given bit-depth (ie, real world images dont typically show banding quite as easily as the smooth gradients Ive used above.). Lets say you had shot in Jpeg mode (Jpegs are always 8-bit) and blown out the sky, so you wanted to add a gentle blue vignette layer to the white sky. So even though the difference may not be initially visible, they can become a serious issue later as you edit the image. To test the limits for my Nikon D850, I shot a series of exposures bracketed at 1 stop intervals using both 12 and 14-bit RAW capture with my D850 at base ISO under controlled lighting. It probably looks pure black to you, but if you look closely, youll see theres some detail. Click the button at the bottom of the ACR screen to . Of course, be sure to export from this RAW as a 16-bit TIF/PSD when you need to continue on to Photoshop. In other words, there is noise in your image. As a simple analogy, pouring a small glass of water into a bigger glass doesn't give you more water - it just gives you a partially-filled big glass. It is also important to note that you are likely to run into false banding when viewing images at less than 67% zoom. Download our free iPad app at http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/video-training-courses-from/id418130423?mt=8More details on this Photoshop training can be seen at http://www.infiniteskills.com/training/learning-adobe-photoshop-cc.html This clip is one example from the complete course. Copyright 2022 Adobe. No matter which camera or RAW conversion software you use, it is best to do white balance and tonal adjustments in RAW before Photoshop for best results. I havent spent the time to investigate how it all nets out when you factor in log-scaling used on the data, but my sense is that using ProPhoto is roughly like throwing roughly 1-bit of data. A 3-stop change in exposure is closer to only losing 2 bits. For the rest of this article, Ill be referencing bits/channel (the camera/Photoshop terminology). And even when I am looking for it, I cannot easily tell exactly where the edges are in comparison to a 10-bit gradient. Color depth determines how many colors can be reproduced in an image. And as discussed above, wider gamuts should be used with 16-bit files. I rarely would adjust RAW exposure out to +/-4 stops, but it can happen with extreme situations or portions of poor exposures. Photoshop lists the bit depth as Bits/Channel. Subsequent edits on 8-bit images will not degrade as badly if that math is performed in a 16-bit mode. Want all of our free Photoshop videos? Furthermore, RAW processing software matters, so I also tried processing the same images in Capture One (testing auto, Film Standard, and Linear curves for the D850). Camera companies can claim any bit depth they want, it does not mean that you are getting better quality. It is widely accepted that there are benefits to working in 16-bit rather than 8-bit mode for some repeat some editing tasks. In reality, 8-bits is fine for final print output. A single bit has 2 possible values, 0 or 1. All Free Mockups is a participant in the Envato Affiliate Program, and as a Envato Affiliate, earns from qualified purchases. So 8-bits means 8-bits per channel. A single bit isnt really good for anything beyond yes or no because it can only have 2 values. Clearly, this is massively underexposed throughout the image and about as extreme an example as you could ever imagine. Others may disagree with me on this, but I have yet to push a file and find banding issues related to ProPhoto in 16-bits. In an 8-bit image, there are 256 colors. However, if the vendor requires a JPG or you want to send a smaller file, you might be faced with questions about converting to 8-bits. One way is to use an image editing program like Photoshop. My test scene included a gray card to help precisely evaluate white balance. In addition to 8 Bits/Channel images, Photoshop can also work with images that contain 16 or 32 Bits/Channel.. (You may be aware that it uses 16-bit floating point math in order to cover a wider dynamic range with a similar number of bits. The difference between 8 bit, 16 bit, and 32 bit is the number of color values that can be displayed. Bit depth is one of those terms weve all run into, but very few photographers truly understand. All Free Mockups also participates in affiliate programs with other sites. This technique will add believable depth of field to you images. With a 16-bit workflow, I see no reason to worry about banding/posterization with ProPhoto RGB and I use ProPhoto RGB as my primary color space these days. I would recommend making all other changes (flattening, color space conversion, sharpening, etc) before conversion to 8-bits. The one with the checkmark next to it is your current color depth. 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