Its so important for young designers to think about because, all of these retailers are run by older people who think younger people should respect them even though older people have fucked everything for us in the first place and so inherently owe us a lot, and also they need to remember that were the ones making moves here, so get on board! While its bold, innovative and statement-making aesthetic is the defining feature, the brand also quietly focuses on sustainability and zero waste. You have to trust your team to do the job and itll get done. I know, he had no concept of age restrictions and just wanted to watch things together. For me, its really important to be able to fully trust who Im working with, especially as moneys too tight to be able to afford big mistakes; this means our teams are almost always female Im sure you understand why. Founded in 2013 by Claire Yurika Davis, the brand's signature latex silhouettes have oft been inspired by fetishised fabrics and global girl gangs. Everybody else gets theirs mentioned and there are images of their brands work and images of them in the studio. Or do you see another aspect to your work that has nothing to do with sexuality? After university, I basically went straight into a job that came off the back of an internship Id done for a few weeks Im good at sewing and it was a machinist job sewing lingerie. The night before that scene shed got into a huge argument with her partner and was experiencing a whirlwind of PMS and when Tan France pulled her into a backroom to ask her if she was OK. She broke down and spoke about everything including the fact that Kiki and Farai were still there despite the fact that they were stapling clothes together. "People are detached from the concept that life will end. Yeah, definitely, and I think that then helps prevent preconceived notions of who you are and what your brand is. Dedicated to bringing latex into a fashion-forward context, Davis has been working with the fabric since 2013. Look Collection Dress Design Fashion Womenswear Claire yurika davis Next in fashion Netflix Alexa Chung Hanger London Shitposting alt-queen La'Shaunae finally has her own fashion line When La'Shaunae Steward stormed the Dazed 100 and eventually took home the crown in 2019, one of the topics she was most passionate about was fashion. So we touched on it briefly earlier, but I know some designs have been inspired by your culture and heritage can you tell me more about the process of incorporating your culture into your designs? I worked with artist Chris Fowler on this shoot, mainly just because we wanted to create something fun and in line with the inspiration of the collection. 2,358 Likes, 21 Comments - HANGER (@hanger_inc) on Instagram: ""Claire Yurika Davis, founder of the London-based brand HANGER, is a latex evangelist. And weed-infused gowns. Also, the reason you have these people is so you can delegate because this is not what youre good at. People really encouraged me to link it to myself, use my middle name and stuff like that, but my middle name is my Japanese name which is Yurika, but I wanted it to be really separate and kind of anonymous. I was like why is the designer always bottom of the pile? We literally do everything and Im fucking sick of it, says the 29-year-old. Yeah, totally. How much does your work benefit or take influence from the other creatives around you? Once you begin, it just keeps on going really. Have you experienced any issues due to the pandemic at HANGER and how have you managed to overcome them? When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Over the course of the last few years, the ASOS Fashion Discovery award-winning designer has become known for her subversively sexy aesthetic, with latex, lace-up dresses, 90s-style blazers, skin-tight, bootcut trousers, and boldly branded fluoro t-shirts all featuring heavily. HANGER WOMENSWEAR 'I am actually extremely allergic to latex!' says designer Claire Yurika Davis of London-based label HANGER, but it's never stopped her in the creation of her signature sci-fi-meets-minimal latex designs. But lets not get religious twisted with spirituality. 4,951 Likes, 387 Comments - Yurika (@thehaipriestxss) on Instagram: "OMG my @hanger_inc latex jeans and @neverbecky 's butt became a meme an u don't know how much this" If you haven't heard of Claire Yurika Davis, then it's time to put her on your radar. The reason I look to empowered female figures in my work is that I already am one and I am surrounded by them whether they know it or not. And really, if youre a business that isnt B2B (so you dont sell directly to retailers or wholesalers) then youre automatically winning as youre cutting out all of that crap, so you wont get fined for sending something in a week late and all of the penalisations that comes with working with retailers. Barely there is very much our signature vibe as they were always our best sellers. The racy collection was accompanied by a print sale, all profits were donated to charities centering POC in the UK as a way to give back during the pandemic. Give a Gift . Also, latex doesnt have to be for everyone but definitely should be for more than it is now. Spirituality Lead Florence Huntington-Whiteley Talent + Community So Im still going to do this small-scale collection, but Ill add a couple fun extra things in there. She continued to refine and redefine her style with club-ready looks from daring cut out dresses and tailored jackets to airtight trousers that make the wearer look like a neatly-packed Babybel. It showed that they knew who they wanted to go the distance, she says. Creative Director / Concept by Claire Yurika Davis @ Hanger & Juno Calypso Dir. I interviewed Claire Yurika Davis, founder and designer of the London-based, latex-focused label HANGER Inc, for The Polyester Zine Podcast's 'Ask An Expert' section, on How to Start a Fashion Brand. Plus, sign up here to get Harpers Bazaar magazine delivered straight to your door. So when the pandemic hit I sent my team home early because there wasnt much we could do, our studio is in Soho so I asked everyone to stay home. Ive been on that journey for about a year now, and when the pandemic happened I had a plan to release a small slutty collection a small collection of really skanky, tiny items as at this point I decided I just wanted to release a couple of things when I feel like it, if people want to buy it they can, but the main thing to me was putting out messaging that was interesting, and also occupying a space in the sustainability sphere thats relatively not lame as that was kind of the main responsibility I gave to HANGER, because at the moment Im not really looking to operate on a large scale or actually really make that much money from it, Im just trying to show that you can have a brand that has good practices and is cool in that sphere because theres not that many. Claire Yurika Davis is a London-based fashion designer and owner of. It's unsurprising and depressing at the same time that that was the reality.". Objectively, Claire was dealt a bad hand. With every shoot, the team is made up of friends or friends of friends. I liked the word, it was simple, it essentially didnt mean anything, it refers to a clothes hanger which is like the most basic thing and I liked that non-name-ness about it. Today, Claire shares her expert insight into starting your own brand, authentic storytelling and embracing sustainability. It wasnt the only time her mixed heritage rendered her invisible. I started in 2013 and things have changed so much in the last 7 years. For more on Davis' brand visit Hanger Inc or to book a tarot reading visit Yuri Tarot. I find film is the best way to express moods or feelings or stories. Its so archaic," she says. Where last season was focused on speed and aggression, this time around Davis wanted to make a very clear departure from that and slow things down. A panel of esteemed judges including renowned industry figures such as Sharmadean Reid and Julia Sarr-Jamois along with ASOS' own CEO whittled them down to just 10. Martine Jarlgaard whose designs are comprised of dressy nostalgia and understated decadence is up next. And you have the money youve made, but it feels like poisoned money. Claire Yurika Davis is on a mission to change this with her womenswear brand HANGER. Davis points out that there are support groups available such as The Grief Network, which talks openly about death and supports those grieving in the same candid, straightforward way. But that did get me somewhere, and its all about taking these steps and the people you meet and asking for advice and you find your way like that. As a brand, I think our practices of manufacturing in London and incorporating renewable fabrics does set us apart from a lot of other labels but theres still a lot more I hope we can do in the future. Davis comes from the perspective of having run a brand that people associated with sustainability, which had its challenges. Sleepy Chan develops on this, adding strappy latex bra tops and her take on the ever-popular micro bag into the mix. Or is the responsibility on ourselves to change the way we approach it? When I started I actually didnt do it that much. I think especially with the pandemic right now, small brands especially will be excited to hear about new ways that people can intern remotely. The coronavirus pandemic has created a number of unforeseen problems the fashion industry has faced over the last eight weeks, and the solution so far has been to press pause on the fashion cycle. "Its as if it exists in peoples minds as this untouchable conversation and as something that you only talk about when it happens to you., Its important to have conversations with people about grief and death as much as possible. Like the team who produced your video or models and photographers you work with? I dont want to make clothes to change peoples points of view or behaviour anymore. Explore. That it would be fun [laughs]. What is one myth about starting your own brand that youd like to debunk? Elsewhere she also felt like co-host Alexa Chung displayed Asian solidarity with Angel and Minju but not her. As she signs off as the brands owner, the final and tenth collection is a love letter entitled: Sayonara Slutz! So I think maybe the message there is that if you want to feel fun and creative, then the responsibility is on you to structure your work in that way. Claire is a sustainability consultant and the founder of HANGER. So youve got to make the distinction of the purpose of everything. There are very few things that are done or thought up solely on my own. Recently she put out an open call for pitches to see whether she could find a worthy successor to take over the brand after her departure, but she hasnt had any good proposals as of yet. What is the best thing they can do for their career in the meantime, during lockdown? Did you ever find it hard when you first started delegating tasks when its your label? I think if you get swept up in quick success then the pressure to keep up can prevent sustainability. Out of 600 applicants, and a shortlist of 12, emerged two incredible newcomers: designer Elissa Grainger of latex lingerie label Elissa Poppy from Hertfordshire and London-based Claire Yurika. Its part of life.. I think that a lot of people who are into fashion wanted to be designers for a long time, and that was the same with me since I was a kid I wanted to be a designer. Of course to some degree at the start, but the delegating to me becomes worse when were all together all of the time. Summary I am so excited for this week's episode with the iconic Claire Yurika, aka The High Priestexx, and founder of Hangar and the more recently Cogdis Studio. For Davis, it was more important to remain true to her values rather than adhering to arguably outdated industry traditions. I ripped the show apart from top to bottom, I said it was dogshit, I cant help but say how I feel.. Like, if H&M has a conscious collection rack on one side of the store, but all of the other racks are not, why not? Theyre amazing. Unfortunately, profit margins are way more important to brands than environmental damage and slavery, so I think fashion still has an incredibly long way to go. If you do want to work with these retailers, you can also make sure to negotiate terms that are going to benefit you and not ones that are just the standard contracts. From skin-tight skirts to tailored flesh-like coats, the brand is a haven for those with a hunger to challenge the status quo. Peoples preconceptions of the fabric are pretty die-hard but were getting there. Obviously, sustainability is needed in the fashion industry. And oh how the fash' world will always adore juxtaposition especially when executed as immaculately as has been achieved here. Ive had my label for a long time now but Im not really looking to go back to that cycle we were talking about before. In a document titled Manifesting Utopia, released in April, they suggest expanding the format of manifestos to include multiple points of interaction. Instagram @thehaipriestxss @hanger_inc Grief will always come at you in waves. The people around me really drive me and push me creatively, and fortunately, my close circle is full of creatives with whom I work regularly. I would hope that anyone wearing my clothes feels however they want to feel, be that sexy and dominant or quiet and low-key. London-based HANGER wowed at every stage with its distinct British-Japanese influences, 'Made in London' sustainability and unique latex craftsmanship. Hey Fashion! I think people are always looking for new external stimulus but why not use what you already know? "I was like 'why is the designer always bottom of the pile?' A lot of our readers are students or new graduates and were planning on interning over their summers or starting graduate placements. Stills from the film Sleepy Chan directed by Jade Jackman, produced by Black Dog Films, We use cookies to make it easier for you to browse our website. So that was something I struggled with, as I always had mentors I could go to but I felt like they were mentoring me for an age that didnt exist anymore. Hangers final sample sale will take place in Soho, 26 September. I think the main myth that people think its going to be really cool and creative and glamorous, you get to go to loads of parties and shows, and that its always exciting. Its also important to interact with your customer base, knowing when they want things and then being able to provide it. It did, under no uncertain terms, enable me to get to the next stage of business, be able to work with amazing people and show my brand to a much greater audience. There are always people out there who are willing to give advice. Oct 29, 2017 - Hanger, designer Claire Yurika Davis, AW17. For me, having that break has made me realise that I was being annoying when we were together and so I really needed that distance to reassure myself that everything still goes fine when youre not there. I wouldnt recommend taking every step that I did, I only did them because I had no idea what to do, and it did get me somewhere. Producer: Karan Chhatwal. Even though this London Fashion Week went ahead Claire thinks the pandemic should be used as a watershed moment to reevaluate the old guard. Why Are We Still So Obsessed With Smoking? Sign up to our free weekly newsletter for skincare and self-care, the latest cultural hits to read and download, and the little luxuries that make staying in so much more satisfying. It was very small to start out with literally we started in my basement before we got a studio around the corner and just did things small scale with the money that I could save, just keeping things small and working with friends a lot (Im the kind of person who doesnt mind asking for favours). Facebook: View Facebook. From one collection to the next there could be a link between the characters, but mainly Im envisioning dressing people of the future, in a specific time and place., When it comes to what she has in store for these characters further down the line, the designer is ambitious. Think about what your dream task is for that brand, and then pitch it to them. Yeah, right, because if its my name then it has to be all about me and my Japanese heritage and theres so much weight on that and obligation. There are times when youre drowning and times when youre okay.". Yeah, 100%, youve got to create the system to make that possible, because if you go with the standard, everything in fashion is so archaic that youre going to be led down a crumbly path from the start. I did that and just partied and whatever for a year, did some styling, and then I started by doing some courses. Claire Yurika Davis Creative + Education Blending knowledge from her spiritual journey with 7 years building her independent, zero-waste fashion brand HANGER, Claire's expert voice, mystic energy + aesthetic status is human-centric and creatively unmatched. I was talking to my mum about the new collection, and where I wanted to go with it, and she reminded me of a proverb thats echoed in every culture: he who chases two rabbits will catch neither. As an openly spiritual person and tarot card reader, Davis accepted her grief as part of her. Free company director check. I think the development of style is a constant thing and is always changing. I also just want to make sustainability a little cooler, she adds. For fashion students, however, the months continue to roll on, with many fast approaching graduation and entering a vast expanse of uncertainty with little opportunities on horizon. Another really important thing is treating your team as more of a network and equals and people you work with rather than people who work for you, as if they always have to report back to you then you always have to be available to them, and youve got to always be able to see what theyre doing and that just makes everything long. Speaking about something so personal in such a public way could feel overwhelming to some - and, rightfully so - but Davis felt strongly that it was an important topic to talk about. Directed by Jade Jackman, the short sees a woman seemingly initiated into a cult by way of a ritualistic Japanese tea ceremony. Specializing in slick, directional, and fetish-inspired . Claire Yurika Davis currently holds the position of a Director (DESIGNER) in HANGER INC LTD and Director (COMPANY DIRECTOR) in THE HIGH PRIESTXSS LTD. She has been a Director (DESIGNER) of HANGER INC LTD for 17 months, Director (COMPANY DIRECTOR) of THE HIGH PRIESTXSS LTD for 24 months. For me, my main issue when he died was how taboo and secretive it seemed to be and how many people were awkward about it. Theres so much drama, embellishment and iconic silhouettes among them, and I want to continue exploring these references to show that religion is a purely social and monetary construct, and is as much about fashion as a ready-to-wear or couture collection from whatever designer. Like I know the tasks that need to be done, but if someone else is better at that task than me then tell me what you need, dont have it that Im telling you what to do. From: London, UK - of Jamaican and Japanese heritage. Shortly after graduating in 2012, Davis founded her own label, Hanger, in 2013, with the simple aim of creating "good clothes for good people. But also when it comes to the actual product side, its all really linked to what kind of product and what the purpose of it is, because if youve got a product that you need to release at this time of year and in this location, those kinds of restrictions are going to cause you problems. You need to talk about your feelings to work through them - to not do that isn't healthy.. Linked-in: View Linked-in. Um, no! Plus, Nikki de Saint Phalle's tarot garden, Jessamyn Stanley on the politics of yoga and weed, Les Jesus play dress-up in Mexico City, Claire Yurika Davis of HANGER gets freaky with fashion's demonized materials, a primer on the endocannabinoid P Prelude & Dawn flo Graphic Design Trends Ad Design Design Inspo Flyer Design Art Poster Design L Once I started doing that and bringing small personal things in people were really excited, and you realise these are things that people are interested in because it is just me. I think my upbringing has repelled me from a sense of religion for sure, but Im really into religious clothing, she says. Though it was praised for being the antidote to bitchy fashion reality television, when we bumped into each other shortly afterward in a bar in Dalston Claire revealed that she felt let down by the show. 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